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    • 专利摘要:
    Hair treatment agents which contain trimethylglycine in a cosmetic medium, a particular amidoamine and a particular esterquat are suitable for improving the hair care properties, in particular to improve the ease of combing and the ease of disentangling the hair wet or dry, as well as the touch, shine and static properties of the hair.
    公开号:FR3078253A1
    申请号:FR1901547
    申请日:2019-02-15
    公开日:2019-08-30
    发明作者:Thomas Schröder；Sören Scheele；Manuela Mette
    申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Description
    Title of the invention: Conditioning agent for improving the shine of the hair The invention relates to hair treatment agents with a care effect based on trimethylglycine and amidoamines and in particular esters. The invention further relates to the use of hair treatment agents to improve hair care properties, in particular to improve the shine of the hair.
    In particular due to the intensive use of hair, induced for example by coloring or perms, frequent washing with shampoos, followed by drying with a hair dryer, but also by environmental pollution, it is d '' all the more important to have hair care products with an effect that is as lasting as possible.
    However, the known active substances do not allow sufficient coverage of all needs. Due to the increasing number of intolerances, consumers are increasingly seeking less complex cosmetic hair treatment products, containing a high proportion of active substances and adjuvants of natural origin with very good hair care properties and good biodegradability.
    [0004] Cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium compounds of the mono-, di- and / or trialkylammonium type and the estersquats have long been recognized as effective active substances for hair care.
    However, due to their insufficient biodegradability, these active substances are increasingly neglected, the esterquats having the disadvantage of often leaving an unpleasant dull feeling on the hair. In the past, they have often been combined with silicones to eliminate this drawback and achieve improved care efficiency. However, silicones are also the target of criticism for environmental reasons, which is why they are preferably avoided from being used in hair care agents.
    [0006] In document DE 102015223028, a combination of esterquats and other particular cationic compounds has been proposed. This has made it possible to provide hair care agents which give the hair better properties in terms of combability and combability, better feel and more volume and shine.
    However, it is necessary to further improve the agents from the point of view of the ease of combing and the ease of disentangling dry hair. In addition, cationic care substances sometimes cause an undesirable disorder of the hair, which is particularly problematic in the case of use on dry hair and / or very fine hair.
    The objective of the present application was to provide a hair treatment agent offering good care performance, and ensuring an optimal balance between long-term or long-lasting care effectiveness, and satisfactory tolerance and biodegradability.
    Ideally, we should be able to do without the auxiliary effect of silicones and / or mineral oils.
    The present application also aimed to develop hair treatment agents for improving the shine of the hair.
    It has been discovered that by combining trimethylglycine with particular amidoamines and esterquats, it is possible to obtain hair treatment agents having excellent care efficiency. The agents are very well tolerated by the skin and have good environmental compatibility.
    In particular, the ease of combing and the ease of disentangling dry and damp hair, as well as the feel, the shine and the static properties of the hair, could be improved by means of these agents, without it being necessary. to use additional care substances such as silicones or mineral oils.
    Hair treatment agents can also be formulated easily and are stable on storage, even in the event of temperature variations.
    A first object of the present application is thus a hair treatment agent containing, in a cosmetic support,
    at. trimethylglycine,
    b. at least one amidoamine of formula (I) [Chem.l]
    R ’i represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl (or alkenyl) radical having from 19 to 30 carbon atoms,
    R'2et R '3 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group at C 4, and x is an integer in the range of 2 to 6, and
    vs. at least one esterquat of formula (II), [Chem. 2] x (II)
    R.,
    The
    --n + —R 3
    R4 where [0015] [0016] [0017] [0018]
    Ri and R 2 are identical or different and represent a C 1 to C 4 alkyl radical,
    R 3 and R 4 are identical or different and represent the group -CH 2 CH (R 5 ) -OR 6 , in which
    R 5 represents a C 1 to C 6 alkyl group,
    R 6 represents an acyl radical of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or the acyl radical of isostearic acid, and
    X represents a halide, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate ion.
    The suitable hair treatment agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair coloring agents, hair bleaching agents, shampoos, hair conditioning agents, shampoos with conditioning effect, hair sprays, conditioners , hair cures, hair conditioners, hair toners, perm fixation solutions, color shampoos, hair coloring agents, hair fixers, hair setting agents, styling preparations, lotions for use with hair dryers, foaming fixatives, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
    Particularly preferably, the term "hair treatment agents according to the invention" means hair conditioning agents without rinsing (in English: leave-ori) or with rinsing (in English: rinse-off) which can be formulated under any form commonly available commercially.
    The particularly preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, in a first preferred embodiment, (relative to the weight of the total agent)
    - from 0.05 to 10.00% by weight of trimethylglycine a),
    - from 0.01 to 2.00% by weight of at least one amidoamine b) of formula (I),
    - from 0.01 to 10.00% by weight of at least one esterquat c) of formula (II).
    The hair treatment agents according to the invention contain the active substances a) to c) in a cosmetic support. The term “cosmetic support” is preferably understood to mean, for the purposes of the invention, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic support.
    The cosmetic support preferably contains at least 75% by weight, more preferably at least 77% by weight, particularly preferably at least 78% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 80% by weight of water.
    The cosmetic support may also contain from 0.50 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75 to 12.50% by weight and in particular from 1.00 to 10.00% by weight of at least an alcohol.
    Suitable alcohols are for example ethanol, ethyldiglycol, propan-1-ol, propan-2-ol, isopropanol, propane-1,2-diol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, butan-l-ol, butan-2-ol, butane-l, 2-ol, butane-l, 3-ol, pentan-l-ol, pentan2-ol, 1, 2-pentandiol, 1,5-pentandiol, hexan-l-ol, hexan-2-ol, hexan-1,2-diol, hexan-l, 6-diol, polyethylene glycolene , sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols.
    Polyols are particularly preferred because it has been discovered that they further enhance the care effect of the active substances a) to c) in the hair treatment agents according to the invention. In addition, a certain polyol content can contribute to better solubilization of the oils possibly present in the hair treatment agents, which thus makes it possible to dispense with additional polymeric stabilizers, in particular.
    A particularly preferred polyol is glycerol, which can be used in the agents according to the invention in the amounts mentioned above.
    In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention thus also contain from 0.50 to 10.00% by weight of at least one polyol, preferably from 1.00 to 10.00% by weight of glycerol.
    Trimethylglycine (betaine) is a first essential constituent of the mixture of active care substances according to the invention in the hair treatment agents according to the invention. Trimethylglycine is an amino acid derivative well known for its use in cosmetic agents, which can be obtained from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is commercially available, for example, from the company Evonik under the trade name Tego® Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in skin treatment preparations and as a fixing active substance in hair treatment agents.
    It has been observed that the hair care properties of the particular amidoamines b) and esterquats c) can be further improved by adding trimethylglycine. By combining the three active substances, it is possible to improve the properties of dry hair in terms of ease of disentangling and of combability, and to impart to the hair a softness to the touch to the tips. In addition, the problem of hair charged with static electricity can be greatly reduced.
    Trimethylglycine is used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 10.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.10 to 8.00 % by weight, particularly preferably from 0.50 to 6.00% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.75 to 5.00% by weight and in particular from 1.00 to 4.00% by weight (relative to the weight of the total agent).
    A second essential constituent of the mixture of active care substances in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is an amidoamine b) of formula (I), [0029] [Chem.3] [0030]
    R'i represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl (or alkenyl) radical having from 19 to 30 carbon atoms, R ' 2 and R' 3 independently represent one of the other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group at C 4, and [0033] x represents an integer in the range of 2 to 6.
    Amidoamines b) of formula (I) give the hair a very soft and supple feel, without weighing it down. It has been found in particular that the amidoamines b) having an alkyl (alkenyl) radical (R'i) having more than 19 carbon atoms improve the ease of combing and are more suitable than the amidoamines having an alkyl (alkenyl) radical commonly used in the prior art, which have 18 carbon atoms or less, to prevent an over-conditioning effect.
    Amidoamines b) which are particularly suitable are therefore those corresponding to formula (I), where
    - R ’i represents an alkenyl radical having 20 to 24 carbon atoms,
    - R’2 and R’3 represent methyl groups, and
    - x represents the numbers 2, 3 or 4.
    Amidoamines b) of formula (I) particularly preferred for use in hair treatment agents according to the invention are chosen from amidoamines b) known under the name INCI of Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine.
    These amidoamines b) are commercially available from various suppliers and are particularly suitable for use in the agents according to the invention; Let us cite as examples Kerabase® LC from the company Inolex Personal Care
    Ingredients, ProCondition® 22 from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients and / or
    Amidet® APA-22 from Kao Corporation.
    The amidoamine or amidoamine (s) b) is / are used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 2.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 1.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 1.50% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.20 to 1.25% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 1.00% by weight (relative to the weight of the total agent).
    A third essential constituent of the mixture of active care substances in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is an esterquat c) of formula (II), [0040] [Chem.4]
    R a
    R 1 --N + —R 3
    Kl
    X 'where
    - Ri and R 2 are identical or different and represent alkyl to C 4,
    - R 3 and R 4 are identical or different and represent the group -CH 2 CH (R 5 ) -OR 6 , in which
    - R 5 is alkyl to C 6,
    R 6 represents an acyl radical of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or the acyl radical of isostearic acid, and
    - X represents a halide, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate ion.
    Esterquats c) enhance the capillary conditioning effect of amidoamines b) and improve, inside the combination of active substances a) to c), the feel of the hair, in particular.
    A balanced weight ratio of the esterquats c) and the amidoamines b) also makes it possible to improve the shine of the hair.
    It has been discovered that particularly good hair conditioning results can be obtained with esterquats c) which contain unsaturated and / or branched acyl radicals R6 having a certain length of carbon chain.
    The particularly preferred esterquats c) are therefore chosen from the compounds of formula (II), where
    - Ri and R 2 are identical and represent a methyl radical, [0046] [0047] [0048] [0049] [0050] [0051] [0052] [0053] [0054]
    - R 3 and R 4 are identical and represent the group -CH 2 -CH (R 5 ) -OR 6 , in which
    - R 5 represents a methyl radical,
    R 6 represents the acyl radical of oleic acid or the acyl radical of isostearic acid, and
    - X represents a chloride or methyl sulfate ion.
    Particularly preferred are the esterquats c) containing a mixture of compounds of formula (II) (II. 1 and II.2), in which
    - R6 represents the acyl radical of oleic acid (II. 1) and
    - R6 represents the acyl radical of isostearic acid (II.2).
    The esterquats c) of formula (II) known under the name of bis (isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl) dimonium methosulfate (INCI name: Quatemium-98) are commercially available, for example under the name Varisoft® EQ 100 of the Evonik company.
    The esterquat or esterquats b) is / are used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 8.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 6.00% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.20 to 4.00% by weight and in particular from 0, 25 to 2.00% by weight (relative to the weight of the total agent).
    The best hair care results can be obtained if at least one amidoamine b) and at least one esterquat c) are used in the mixture of active substances a) to c) in a certain weight ratio.
    A weight ratio of amidoamine b) to esterquat c) in the range from 1: 5 to 1: 1, and in particular from 1: 4 to 1: 2, has been found to be particularly preferred.
    During a test carried out with consumers, it was discovered that with the combination of active substances a) to c) in the hair treatment agents according to the invention, all of the objectives in terms of care and of stability of the compositions can be achieved. It is not necessary to incorporate other cationic care active substances such as other cationic surfactants and / or cationic polymers.
    In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention therefore do not contain, in addition to amidoamines b) and esterquats c), any other cationic (or cationizable) care substance, in particular no other cationic surfactant (or cationizable) and / or cationic polymer.
    To further increase the care and / or rheological properties of the agents according to the invention, it may be advantageous that they also contain at least one cosmetic oil.
    The term “suitable cosmetic oils” for the purposes of the present invention means oily bodies having a melting point of less than 50 ° C., particularly preferably less than 47 ° C., very particularly preferably less than ° C., and most preferably less than 40 ° C. The most suitable cosmetic oils are fluid oils at a temperature below 40 ° C.
    The preferred cosmetic oils are natural vegetable oils (= vegetable oils).
    Vegetable oils (and / or vegetable butters) - also used at low concentrations - can, in combination with the combination of active substances a), b), c), further increase the benefits of hair conditioning mentioned above, without inducing an accumulation effect (in English: built-up) in the event of regular use. In addition, the vegetable oils (and / or vegetable butters) in the mixture of active care substances of the hair treatment agents according to the invention contribute to further improving the shine of the hair.
    Examples of suitable natural vegetable oils according to the invention are, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil , pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower oil, seed oil gooseberry, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, coconut oil, squash seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, l mallow oil, almond oil, mango kernel oil, marula oil, carrot oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm, palm kernel oil, kernel oil peach, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, safflower oil, berry pulp oil sea buckthorn, sea buckthorn seed oil, sasanqua oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tea tree oil, grape seeds, tsubaki oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, meadowsweet oil and / or wild rose oil.
    Preferred amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, olive oil are preferred. almond, macadamia nut oil, rosehip seed oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil and / or butters shea butter and / or cocoa butter.
    The teaching according to the invention also includes the fact that at least two natural vegetable oils can be mixed. Preferred mixtures of natural oils can be, for example: amaranth seed oil with sea buckthorn oil, amaranth seed oil with shea butter, seed oil amaranth with camelina oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with sea buckthorn oil, olive oil with camelina oil, olive oil with shea butter, macadamia nut oil with sea buckthorn oil and / or oil macadamia nuts with shea butter.
    In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain a mixture of natural vegetable oils, preferably a mixture of vegetable oils and / or vegetable butters, and in particular a mixture of macadamia nut oil with shea butter.
    The vegetable oil (s) (and / or vegetable butters) is / are used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in an amount ranging from from 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 2.50% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 2.00% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 25 to 1.50% by weight and in particular from 0.50 to 1.00% by weight (relative to the weight of the total agent).
    Another preferred group of cosmetic oils is ester oils.
    According to the invention, is preferred in particular isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), the C16-18 alkyl ester of isononanoic acid (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), 2-ethylhexyl ester of stearic acid (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, caprinate / coconut fatty alcohol caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n stearate -butyl, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A ), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetaryl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V ). Isopropyl myristate is particularly preferred.
    Ester oil or ester oils is / are used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 4.00 % by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.50% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 3.00% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.25 to 2.50% by weight weight and in particular from 0.50 to 2.00% by weight (relative to the weight of the total agent).
    In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural vegetable oil and at least one ester oil.
    The compositions according to the invention may optionally contain one or more emulsifier (s) for dissolving the oils mentioned above.
    The term “suitable emulsifiers” preferably means non-ionic polyethoxylated emulsifiers, particularly preferably ethoxylated fatty alcohols containing from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and / or ethoxylated castor oil.
    Ethoxylated fatty alcohols suitable in the context of the invention are the addition products of ethylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, the degree of ethoxylation indicating the amount in moles of ethylene oxide (EO ) added on average per mole of fatty alcohol. Examples of preferred ethoxylated fatty alcohols include the adducts of ethylene oxide with capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol , palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselin alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleiyl alcohol , behenyl alcohol, erucylic alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, their technical mixtures based on fats and oils or aldehydes derived from Roelen's oxo synthesis, as well as those which form as a monomer fraction during the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred are the adducts to technical fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, in particular coconut fatty alcohol and / or tallow fatty alcohol.
    According to the formulation process, the ethoxylated fatty alcohols are formed as a mixture having a varied distribution of degrees of ethoxylation. For the purposes of the invention, these emulsifiers are therefore characterized by their average degree of ethoxylation. This is generally recognized by the number appearing after the fatty alcohol suffix "eth-" in the INCI name. Particularly suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols whose degree of ethoxylation is in the range from 10 to 100, preferably from 20 to 80 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol. Examples include: Ceteareth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteareth-15, Laneth-16, Ceteth-16, Oleth-16, Steareth-16, Oleth-20, Ceteth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth- 23, Laureth-23, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteth-40, Laneth-40, Oeth-50, Ceteareth-50, Ceteareth-60 and / or Ceteareth-80.
    By "suitable ethoxylated castor oil" is preferably meant a hardened (i.e. hydrogenated) or unhardened ethoxylated castor oil. The degree of ethoxylation indicates the amount in moles of ethylene oxide (EO) added on average per mole of castor oil. The preferred ethoxylated castor oils are the compounds known by the following INCI names: PEG-5 Castor Oil, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Castor Oil, PEG36 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-80 Castor Oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG -100 Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-120 Castor Oil, PEG-120 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG150 Castor Oil, PEG-150 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-200 Castor Oil, PEG-200
    Hydrogenated Castor Oil.
    The preferred nonionic emulsifiers are castor oils having an average degree of ethoxylation in the range from 20 to 150, preferably from 30 to 100 and particularly preferably from 35 to 80. It is particularly preferred castor oil known as INCI PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.
    From an ecological point of view, it is advantageous for the hair treatment agents according to the invention to contain the emulsifier (s), if necessary, in small quantities.
    In a preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention therefore preferably do not contain more than 1.00% by weight, more preferably not more than 0.80% by weight, in particular preferred not more than 0.60% by weight and in particular not more than 0.50% by weight of one or more nonionic ethoxylated emulsifier (s) (relative to the total weight of the agent).
    To further optimize the rheological properties of the hair treatment agents according to the invention, these may contain fatty substances as additional active substances.
    The term "suitable fatty substances" means fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols which can be present both in solid or liquid form and in aqueous dispersion.
    Suitable fatty acids which can be used are linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include isostearic acid, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acid, such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all the other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis). Other typical examples of these fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, acid palmitic, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, acid gadoleic, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures.
    Usually, particular preference is given to the sections of fatty acids which can be obtained from coconut oil or palm oil; in particular, it is generally preferred to use stearic acid.
    The amount of fatty acids used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is preferably in the range from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total agent. Particularly preferably, the amount of fatty acids used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is in the range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, amounts in the range ranging from 1 to 5% by weight which can be very particularly advantageous.
    Suitable fatty alcohols which can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear fatty alcohols having from 6 to 30, preferably from 10 to 22 and very particularly preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. The following can, for example, be used within the meaning of the invention: decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucylic alcohol, ricinol alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, l linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list being illustrative and not limiting.
    In a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohols can be obtained from natural fatty acids, which can generally be obtained from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. The fatty alcohol sections which constitute a mixture of different fatty alcohols are also usable according to the invention. These substances are for example marketed under the names Stenol®, for example. Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® O, or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® Cl8, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g. Crodacol®CS, Νονοί®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 Of course, according to the invention, wool wax alcohols, such as those sold under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Lluilan®, can also be used.
    The amount of fatty alcohols used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is preferably in the range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total agent. In a particularly preferred manner, the amount of fatty alcohols used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention is in the range from 0.5 to 15% by weight, amounts in the range ranging from 1.0 to 10% by weight which can be very particularly advantageous.
    In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain, to optimize the rheological properties, at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear fatty alcohol, having from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in an amount in the range of 1.00 to 10.00% by weight (based on the weight of the total agent).
    In this embodiment, it is particularly preferred that the hair treatment agents according to the invention contain cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and / or mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol in the quantities mentioned above.
    In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention may also contain, to adjust the pH but also reinforce the hair care properties, at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid in a preferred amount located in the range going from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.20 to 4.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.30 to 3.00% by weight and in particular from 0 , 40 to 2.00% by weight (relative to the weight of the total agent).
    By "appropriate hydroxycarboxylic acids" is preferably meant alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and, in particular, naturally occurring alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, such as those from fruit acids.
    These include, for example, malic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid, isocitric acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid and / or the tartaric acid.
    The term “appropriate hydroxycarboxylic acids” is understood to mean dicarboxylic acids, glutamic acid and / or succinic acid.
    Citric acid, lactic acid, glutamic acid and / or succinic acid are particularly preferred.
    Particularly good stability and particularly good hair care results (in particular as regards the shine of the hair and the sensory properties such as softness and flexibility) can be obtained without over-conditioning (oily hair, heavy) if the hair treatment agents according to the invention do not contain, in addition to the active substances mentioned above, no other constituent of the fatty phase, in particular no silicone oil and / or mineral oil.
    In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention are therefore substantially free of silicones and / or mineral oils.
    The terms “substantially free (s)” mean that the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain less than 0.25% by weight, more preferably less than 0.10% by weight and in particular 0% by weight of silicones and / or mineral oils (relative to the total weight of the hair washing agent).
    The above-mentioned quantities apply equally to freely added silicones and / or mineral oils as well as to silicones and / or mineral oils present, where appropriate, as by-products in commercial products.
    In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatment agents according to the invention are substantially free of polymeric thickeners of synthetic and / or natural origin.
    By "substantially free (s)" is meant the fact that the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain less than 0.25% by weight of [0095] [0097] Preferably even less than 0.10% by weight and in particular 0% by weight of polymeric thickeners of synthetic and / or natural origin (relative to the total weight of the hair wash).
    The quantities mentioned above apply both to polymeric thickeners of synthetic and / or natural origin added freely and to polymeric thickeners of synthetic and / or natural origin present, where appropriate, as by-products in commercial products.
    The hair treatment agents according to the invention may contain other optional active substances, provided that these do not affect the efficacy or the formulation of the agents. Optional active substances include, for example, the following substances:
    - protein hydrolysates,
    - vitamins,
    - anti-dandruff agents,
    - carbohydrates,
    - bioquinones,
    - purines,
    - ectoin and / or
    - plant extracts.
    The term “suitable protein hydrolysates” means mixtures of products which can be obtained by degradation by acid, alkaline or enzymatic catalysis of proteins. Protein hydrolysates of plant, animal and / or marine origin can be used.
    Examples of protein hydrolysates of animal origin are hydrolysates of elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk proteins, which can also exist as salts. Such products are for example sold under the trade names Dehylanâ (Cognis), Promoisâ (Interorgana), Collapuronâ (Cognis), Nutrilanâ (Cognis), Gelita-Solâ (Deutsche Gélatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexeinâ (Inolex) and Kerasolâ ( Croda).
    Plant protein hydrolysates are preferred, for example soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat hydrolysates. Such products are for example available under the trade names Gluadinâ (Cognis), DiaMinâ (Diamalt), Lexeinâ (Inolex) and Croteinâ (Croda).
    The cationic protein hydrolysates can also be used, the basic protein hydrolyzate can be of animal origin, for example from collagen, milk or keratin; of plant origin, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potato, soy or almonds; of marine origin, for example from fish or algae collagen; or from protein hydrolysates derived from bio technologies. The hydrolysates of base proteins of cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, in particular alkaline or acid, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis. Protein hydrolysis typically results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of from about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to hydrolysates of cationic proteins, the basic protein content of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons. In addition, the term “cationic protein hydrolysates” also means quaternary amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n -propyl) -ammonium halides. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates can also be transformed into derivatives. Classical examples of hydrolysates and derivatives of cationic proteins are the commercially available products known under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratinpropyl Hairylatin Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acid Hydroxypropyl Aryline Lauryl / Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Hydroxypropylene Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hy drolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl [0101] [0102] [0103] [0104] [0105] [0106] [0107]
    Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-hydrolyz-79- , Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
    The proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate (s) in the total weight of the hair treatment agents according to the invention can preferably be in the range from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 2% by weight.
    The term “appropriate vitamins” preferably means the following vitamins, provitamins and precursors of vitamins, as well as their derivatives:
    Vitamin A: The group of substances called vitamins A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). B-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. May for example be cited as a component of vitamin A the vitamin A acid and its esters, the vitamin A aldehyde as well as the vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.
    Vitamin B: belong among others to the group of vitamin B or to the complex of vitamin B:
    - vitamin Bi (thiamine)
    - vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
    - vitamin B 3 . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (macinamide) are often presented under this name.
    - vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol). In this group, panthenol is preferably used. The panthenol derivatives which can be used are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and also cationically derived panthenols. Mention may, for example, be made as individual representatives: panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic derivatives of panthenol.
    - vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
    Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): Γ use as an ester of palmitic acid, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
    Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol).
    Vitamin F: Vitamin F is generally understood to mean essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
    [0108] [0109] [ΟΠΟ] [YES] [0112] [0113] [0114]
    Vitamin H: The term “vitamin H” designates the acid compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazol-4-valeric, however commonly called “biotin”.
    Particular preference is given to vitamins, provitamins and precursors of vitamins from groups A, B, E and H. Particular preference is given to nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol. The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), vitamin derivative (s) and / or vitamin precursor (s) in the total weight of the hair treatment agents is preferably in the range from 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.
    The suitable anti-dandruff active substances can be chosen from piroctone olamine, climbazol, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, derivatives of undecylenic acid, extracts of roots of burdock, poplar, nettle, nutshell, birch, willow bark, rosemary and / or arnica. We prefer climbazol, zinc pyrithione and piroctone olamine. Zinc pyrithione is particularly preferred.
    The percentage by weight of the dandruff agents in the total weight of the hair treatment agents may preferably be in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, so particularly preferred from 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular from 0.075 to 3% by weight.
    The suitable carbohydrates can be chosen from the group consisting of monosaccharides and / or disaccharides and are preferably used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 4.50% by weight and in particular from 0.10 to 2.50% by weight (relative to the total weight of the agent).
    The preferred monosaccharides and / or disaccharides are the following:
    - monosaccharides such as d-ribose and / or d-xylose and / or 1-arabinose and / or d-glucose and / or d-mannose and / or d-galactose and / or d-fructose and / or sorbose and / or 1-fucose and / or 1-rhamnose, and
    - disaccharides such as sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.
    In the agents according to the invention, the term "appropriate bioquinones" means one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention correspond to the following formula:
    [0115]
    With η = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.
    Preferred here is all coenzyme Q-10.
    The bioquinones, in particular coenzyme Q-10, can be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 1.0% by weight (relative to the total weight of said agents).
    Purine and the appropriate purine derivatives can be used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight (relative to the total weight of said said agents). The preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine , xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. Most of all we prefer caffeine.
    The ectoin (acid (Sj-2-methyl-l, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic) may be present in the hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably in an amount located in the range from 0.00001 to 1.0% by weight (relative to the total weight of said agents).
    By the use of plant extracts as a care substance, the hair treatment agents according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural manner, and yet very effective, in terms of care performance. Even the commonly used preservatives can be removed, if necessary. The extracts which can be used according to the invention are in particular extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mauve, valerian, limnante, wild thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, bugrane, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger; extracts of Ayurvedic plants such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma ), Cinnamonum
    Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala); grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, different varieties of millet (common millet, finger millet, bird millet, for example), sugar cane, l '' tares, the vulpin of the meadows, the oats with rosary, the common bentgrass, the fescue of the meadows, the molinie, the bamboo, the grass-cotton, the plants of the genus Pennisetum, the Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica, also called "Fire grass" or "cogon grass"), plants of the species Cenchrus ciliaris, plants of the genus Spartina, quackgrass, plants of the genus Eragrostis, cymbopogon (lemongrass), Oryzeae (rice), plants of the genus Zizanie (wild rice), seagrass, blue oats, swells, brize, bluegrass, elymus and echinacea, in particular Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, all vine varieties as well as the pericarp of Litchi chinensis.
    Plant extracts can be used in both pure and diluted form. If used in diluted form, they usually contain around 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and as the solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their production.
    In addition, cosmetic agents may contain other active substances, adjuvants and additives, such as the following substances:
    - UV rays filters,
    - structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
    - bulking agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,
    - dyes, to give a color to the agent, although this is not preferred according to the invention,
    - chelating agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
    - pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearates,
    - pigments,
    - propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
    - antioxidants,
    - perfume oils, perfumes and aromatic substances, although this is not preferred according to the invention, since these are not perfume oils, perfumes and synthetic aromatic substances.
    The hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably have a pH in the range from 2.5 to 5.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 4.5, and in particular from 3.5 to 4.5.
    The preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention have a viscosity in the range from 3,000 to 20,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 3,500 to 15,000 mPa.s, and in particular from 4,000 at 12,000 mPa.s (measured with a device
    Brookfield DV 2+; 2 revolutions per minute; pin 5; at 20 ° C).
    The hair treatment agents according to the invention can be presented both in the form of a single phase and in the form of multiple phases, for example in particular with two or three distinct phases with clear optical separation. When the compositions are in the form of multiple phases, the total composition is agitated before use in order to obtain a single-phase composition, then applied. After shaking, spontaneous separation occurs again and the separate phases re-form in a time in the range of about 1 minute to 300 minutes. If the composition is in the form of multiple phases, it is packaged in a transparent package.
    The compositions according to the invention can also be formulated in the form of pump sprays, aerosols, pump foams or aerosol foams.
    A second object of the invention is the cosmetic use of a hair treatment agent to improve the hair care properties, in particular to improve the ease of combing and the ease of disentangling wet or dry hair as well. than touch, shine and static properties of hair.
    Regarding the preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been explained on the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
    The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject of the present invention, without however limiting it.
    Examples:
    A) The following conditioners according to the invention were prepared (the quantities indicated are expressed in% by weight):
    [0133] [Tables 1]
    1 2 3 4 5 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    [0134] [Tables2]
    6 7 8 9 10 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 Vegetable oil and / or vegetable butter 0.01 - 3.00 0.05 - 2.50 0.10 to 2.00 0.25 - 1.50 0.50-1.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    [0135] [Tables3]
    11 12 13 14 15 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 polyol 0.50 - 10.00 0.75 - 9.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 4.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    [0136] [Tables4]
    16 17 18 19 20 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 Fatty alcohol inC10àC24 0.10 to 20.00 0.50 - 15.00 1.00 to 12.50 1.50 to 10.00 2.00 - 8.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    [0137] [Tables5]
    21 22 23 24 25 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 Hydroxyarboxylic acid 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    [0138] [Tablesô]
    26 27 28 29 30 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 Vegetable oil and / or vegetable butter 0.01 - 3.00 0.05 - 2.50 0.10 to 2.00 0.25 - 1.50 0.50-1.00 polyol 0.50 - 10.00 0.75 - 9.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 4.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    [0139] [Tables7]
    31 32 33 34 35 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 Vegetable oil and / or vegetable butter 0.01 - 3.00 0.05 - 2.50 0.10 to 2.00 0.25 - 1.50 0.50-1.00 Fatty alcohol inC10àC24 0.10 to 20.00 0.50 - 15.00 1.00 to 12.50 1.50 to 10.00 2.00 - 8.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    [0140] [Tables 8]
    36 37 38 39 40 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 Vegetable oil and / or vegetable butter 0.01 - 3.00 0.05 - 2.50 0.10 to 2.00 0.25 - 1.50 0.50-1.00 Hydroxyarboxylic acid 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    [0141] [Tables9]
    41 42 43 44 45 Trimethylglycinee 0.05 - 10.00 0.10 to 8.00 0.50 - 6.00 0.75 - 5.00 1.00 to 4.00 Amidoamine b) of formula (I) 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.75 0.10 to 1.50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00 Esterquat c) of formula (II) 0.01 - 10.00 0.05 - 8.00 0.10 to 6.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.25 - 2.00 Vegetable oil and / or vegetable butter 0.01 - 3.00 0.05 - 2.50 0.10 to 2.00 0.25 - 1.50 0.50-1.00 polyol 0.50 - 10.00 0.75 - 9.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 2.00 - 4.00 Fatty alcohol inC10àC24 0.10 to 20.00 0.50 - 15.00 1.00 to 12.50 1.50 to 10.00 2.00 - 8.00 Hydroxyarboxylic acid 0.10 to 5.00 0.20 - 4.00 0.30 - 3.00 0.40 - 2.00 0.50-1.00 Water and, where appropriate, other adjuvants and additives Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    B) Evaluation of the hair washing agents according to the invention and not in accordance with the invention [0143] [Tables 10]
    46 47 48 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00 3.50 5.00 Glycerin 3.00 Betaine (Trimethylgycin) 1.50 isopropylmyristate 1.00 1.00Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 1.00 Glyceryl Stearate0.60Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol 1.50 Behentrimonium Chloride2.00 1.00 Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride 2.50 Bis (isostearoyl / OleoylIsopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate 1.00 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 0.80 Citric acid0.50 0.30 Lactic acid 0.72 Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine 0.400.80 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine0.40Sodium Benzoate 0.35 Sodium Methylparabene0.25Perfume 0.55 0.55 0.55 Ceteareth-20 0.20 Polyquatemium-37, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Lauryl Glucoside0.50Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.10 phenoxyethanol0.50 0.75 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.20 Macadamia nut oil 0.20 0.20 0.20 Water Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100 Supplement up to 100
    Total cationic care substances 1.00 1.85 2.97 PH 3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5 3.5-4.5 Viscosity [mPa.s] * 4,000-12,000 4,000-12,000 4,000-12,000 Satisfaction with the care properties (average) ** 5.1 4.7 4.9 Satisfaction with hair shine (average) ** 4.9 4.7 4.8
    Table [0145] Composition 46 is in accordance with the invention; compositions 47 and 48 are comparative compositions.
    [0146] * Measured with a Brookfield DV 2+ device; 20 revolutions per minute; pin 5; at ° C.
    ** The value indicated corresponds to the average of the absolute opinions given on each composition by 20 respondents who, after having used the products for 2 weeks, answered the questions "Are you satisfied with the properties of the product in gloss terms "And" Are you satisfied with the properties of the product in terms of care ", by rating the compositions using a scale of 1 to 7 (1 = not at all satisfied; 7 = completely satisfied (e)).
    The products were packed in neutral packaging and identified by a code.
    From the results presented in Table 1, it can be seen that the compositions according to the invention, although they hardly contain half or a third of cationic care substances, give the hair better care properties. than the compositions known in the state of the art.
    权利要求:
    Claims (1)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    [Claim 1]
    Hair treatment agent containing, in a cosmetic support,
    a) trimethylglycine,
    b) at least one amidoamine of formula (I) [Chem. 6] R ' 2
    Where
    R ’i represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical having from 19 to 30 carbon atoms,
    R '2 and R' 3 represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group at C 4, and x is an integer in the range of 2 to 6, and
    c) at least one esterquat of formula (II), [Chem. 7]
    R 2
    R, --- N + ~~ R 3
    R4
    X (li) [Claim 2] where
    Ri and R 2 are identical or different and represent a C 1 to C 4 alkyl radical,
    R 3 and R 4 are identical or different and represent the group -CH 2 -CH (R 5 ) -OR 6 , in which
    R 5 represents a C 1 to C 6 alkyl group,
    R 6 represents an acyl radical of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or the acyl radical of isostearic acid, and
    X represents a halide, methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate ion.
    Hair treatment agent according to claim 1, containing, relative to the weight of the total agent,
    - from 0.05 to 10.00% by weight of trimethylglycine a),
    - from 0.01 to 2.00% by weight of at least one amidoamine b) of formula (I),
    - from 0.01 to 10.00% by weight of at least one esterquat c) of formula (II).
    [Claim 3] [Claim 4] [Claim 5] [Claim 6] [Claim 7] [Claim 8] [Claim 9] [Claim 10]
    Hair treatment agent according to either of Claims 1 and 2, in which the at least one amidoamine b) is chosen from the compounds of formula (I), where
    - R’i represents an alkenyl radical having from 20 to 24 carbon atoms,
    - R ' 2 and R' 3 represent methyl groups, and
    - x represents the numbers 2, 3 or 4.
    Hair treatment agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the at least one amidoamine b) is chosen from the amidoamines known under the name INCI Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine.
    Hair treatment agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the at least one esterquat c) is chosen from the compounds of formula (II), where
    Ri and R 2 are identical and represent a methyl radical,
    - R 3 and R4 are identical and represent the group -CH 2 -CH (R 5 ) -OR 6 , in which
    - R 5 represents a methyl radical,
    R 6 represents the acyl radical of oleic acid or the acyl radical of isostearic acid, and
    - X represents a chloride or methyl sulfate ion.
    A hair treatment agent according to claim 5, wherein
    Γesterquat c) contains a mixture of compounds of formula (II) (II. 1 and II.2), in which
    - R 6 represents the acyl radical of oleic acid (II. 1) and
    - R 6 represents the acyl radical of isostearic acid (II.2).
    Hair treatment agent according to either of Claims 5 and 6, in which the at least one esterquat c) is chosen from the esterquats known under the name INCI Bis (Isostearoyl / Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate.
    Hair treatment agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, containing, with respect to the weight of the total agent, from 1.00 to 10.00% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol from C 0 to C 24 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear.
    Hair treatment agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, containing, relative to the weight of the total agent, from 0.50 to 10.00% by weight of at least one polyol.
    A hair treatment agent according to claim 9, containing glycerol in a percentage by weight in the range of 1.00 to [Claim 11] [Claim 12] [Claim 13] [Claim 14] [Claim 15]
    10.00% by weight of the total weight of the hair treatment agent.
    Hair treatment agent according to any one of the claims
    1 to 10, containing, relative to the weight of the total agent, from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight of at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid.
    Hair treatment agent according to claim 11, containing lactic acid and / or citric acid and / or glutamic acid and / or succinic acid.
    Hair treatment agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, which contains less than 0.25% by weight of silicones and / or mineral oils.
    Hair treatment agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, which contains less than 0.25% by weight of polymeric thickeners of synthetic and / or natural origin.
    Cosmetic use of a hair treatment agent according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to improve the care properties of the hair, in particular to improve the ease of combing and the ease of disentangling wet or dry hair as well as the feel. , shine and static properties of hair.
    类似技术:
    公开号 | 公开日 | 专利标题
    DE102012219583A1|2014-04-30|Hair care products containing selected amino-functional silicones and selected cationic keratin hydrolyzate
    DE102012216293A1|2014-03-13|Hair care products containing anti-dandruff active ingredients and selected plant-based cationic surfactants
    DE102008060147A1|2010-06-10|Hair conditioning agents with imidazolines and ester oils
    DE102015223028A1|2016-06-30|Hair conditioning agents
    FR3078253A1|2019-08-30|Conditioning agent to improve hair shine
    FR3076716A1|2019-07-19|Hair treatments with anti-dandruff action
    DE102012222768A1|2014-06-12|Hair care compositions containing selected and / or selected oligopeptides and / or selected cationic protein hydrolysates and silicones containing sugar structures
    FR3078254A1|2019-08-30|Hair care shampoo
    FR3070268A1|2019-03-01|POWERFUL CAPILLARY TREATMENT AGENTS WITH INCREASED CARE EFFECT
    US10722439B2|2020-07-28|Hair care products
    WO2015086005A1|2015-06-18|Cosmetic composition containing a combination of oligopeptides and ceramides
    FR3104968A1|2021-06-25|Natural conditioning agent
    DE102012216294A1|2014-03-13|Hair care products containing selected amino-functional silicones and selected plant-based cationic surfactants
    FR3089120A1|2020-06-05|Hair care composition
    FR3076721A1|2019-07-19|Hair treatment agent containing sulphated or sulphonated oils and amidoamines
    FR3110409A1|2021-11-26|"Cleaning compositions with a high proportion of natural components"
    FR3110407A1|2021-11-26|"Natural cosmetic cleaning agents containing propanediol caprylate"
    DE102013223918A1|2014-06-26|Hair treatment agent useful to treat keratinous fibers, comprises Rosa damascena flower oil, quaternary ammonium compound comprising e.g. esterquats, quaternary imidazoline compounds and chitosan, and aqueous- or aqueous-alcoholic carrier
    FR3060981A1|2018-06-29|HAIR TREATMENT AGENT WITH HYDROPHOBIC PYROGENIC SILICIC ACIDS
    DE102013212623A1|2014-03-13|Composition, useful for treating keratin fibers, preferably human hair, comprises Opuntia ficus indica seed oil, silicones comprising e.g. alkoxylated silicones, and/or dimethiconols, and aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier
    DE102013212618A1|2014-03-13|Hair treatment agent useful for treating keratinous fibers, comprises pequi oil, silicone comprising e.g. alkoxylated silicone, dimethicone, volatile silicone and/or sugar-containing silicone, and aqueous- or aqueous-alcoholic carrier
    FR3104971A1|2021-06-25|Hair treatment agent based on biodegradable active ingredients
    FR3113597A1|2022-03-04|Natural cosmetic cleansing agent
    DE102013212621A1|2014-03-06|Hair treatment agent, useful for treating keratin fibers such as human hair, comprises flower nectar, silicones comprising e.g. alkoxylated silicones, dimethicones and/or dimethiconols, and aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic carrier
    FR3072572A1|2019-04-26|CAPILLARY TREATMENT PRODUCT STRENGTHENER WITH INCREASED CARE EFFECT
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    US20190262247A1|2019-08-29|
    GB2572066B|2020-09-30|
    GB201902337D0|2019-04-03|
    FR3078253B1|2021-10-22|
    GB2572066A|2019-09-18|
    DE102018202803A1|2019-08-29|
    US11045405B2|2021-06-29|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    US6274128B1|1998-12-23|2001-08-14|Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc.|Self-warming hair conditioning compositions|
    DE102008048438A1|2008-09-23|2010-03-25|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Compositions for reducing breakage of keratinic fibers|
    DE102012205083A1|2012-03-29|2013-10-02|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Hair treatment compositions containing selected fatty acid amides and selected quaternary ammonium compounds|
    DE102015223028A1|2015-11-23|2016-06-30|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Hair conditioning agents|
    CN108295006A|2018-04-03|2018-07-20|冼家彬|Hair growth stimulating shampoo and its preparation method and application|DE102018221974A1|2018-12-17|2020-06-18|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|TRANSPARENT HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION WITH BIS-DIMONIUM METHOSULFATE|
    DE102019134958A1|2019-12-18|2021-06-24|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Hair treatment preparations based on biodegradable active ingredients|
    法律状态:
    2020-02-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2020-10-23| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20201023 |
    2021-02-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2022-02-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    DE102018202803.6|2018-02-23|
    DE102018202803.6A|DE102018202803A1|2018-02-23|2018-02-23|Gloss Conditioner|
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